Vivid Memories of a Vietnam Vacation

Exploring the French Façades and Night Markets of Hanoi

At first sight, I fell for the enigmatic pace of Hanoi, Vietnam’s storied capital. I arrived in the evening, and I immediately left my hotel to explore the city I had heard so much about, an area of lakes, parks, trees, and markets, where locals still convene at sidewalk cafes and barbershops amidst a busied pace of bicycle-filled boulevards and French mansions. Home to centuries-old architecture and a rich, colorful culture, I explored the maze of markets, temples, and street food vendors who make this city so bright.

With a fusion of Southeast Asian, Chinese, and French influence, Hanoi’s architecture is second to none. The French influence is most pronounced in the façades of Hanoi’s largest mansions, like the former Governor's Residence (Presidential Palace), but One Pillar Pagoda, a Buddhist pagoda with a history steeped in folklore, is reflective of a completely different architecture, closely aligned with Vietnam’s traditional way of life. Founded in 1070, I enjoyed visiting the Temple of Literature the most. The pagoda’s tombs were built for the temple’s first nuns and monks who reached the path of entitlement. Deserving of such burial rights due to their unyielding devotion, the tablets display the name of the monks, all they achieved in their life, and their date of death. As an excellent example of traditional Vietnamese architecture, the pagoda housed Vietnam’s first university which was established in 1076 to educate the sons of Mandarins. The temple, dedicated to Confucius, consists of five walled courtyards leading to a pavilion where stelae sit on the backs of giant turtles, symbolizing longevity and prosperity for all.

Learning of Vietnam’s history by day, I ventured to the markets by night, on my Vietnam vacation. Exploring an area full of loud music and people-packed streets, I threw myself into a chaotic fusion of food as I strolled the market to sample Hanoi’s most coveted street snacks. First, I tried boiled snails with fish sauce, a sea-oyster-based dish made with lemon grass and chili peppers, with a side of sliced potato chips on a kebab, known locally as khoai tay chien. I then tried corn stir-fried with shrimp, melon juice, grilled fish, and banh bao – buns stuffed with pork, vermicelli, and vegetables. For dessert, I feasted on banh da, a pancake with sesame on top, usually consumed with wine or beer. With a full stomach and an unending appreciation for Hanoi, I ventured back to my hotel for a night of rest before departing to explore Ha Long Bay in the morning.

Sailing the Emerald Waters of the Ha Long Bay Archipelago

After exploring the bustling city of Hanoi, on my Vietnam vacation, I was shocked to see the inviting waters of Ha Long Bay, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and an area often regarded as Vietnam’s eighth wonder of the world. The area contrasted immensely from the busy streets of Vietnam’s cities, and I found peace and solace in this isolated portion of the country, an area with vast natural beauty. Translating to Bay of Descending Dragons, Ha Long Bay resembles a land of fairytales, and I was mesmerized by the limestone cliffs, which rise sharply from the Gulf of Tonkin, standing resolute over a vast sea where emerald waters rest near rainforests of the 1,969-island archipelago.

Boarding a Bhaya Cruise, I explored the hidden alcoves and tucked-away portions of the islands, where rock climbing, hiking, and kayaking are plenty. I ventured to the largest islands of Gad Bah and Tuan Chau before exploring into the depths of Grotte des Island, a vast cavernous expanse where bats and other critters congregate amidst an impressive collection of stalactite and stalagmite formations. Although the islands vary greatly in size, all are equally magical, similar in both shape and structure. Outnumbering the islands are the limestone outcroppings, cliffs, arches, and coves, totally over 3,000, sprinkled throughout the sea and coastline of the archipelago. During the mornings, I enjoyed my coffee at sunrise, reading as I watched the early morning hours float by. Local vendors paddled to our ship, selling everything from soda to candy. In the afternoon, I explored the natural landscape, kayaking the emerald sea to local townships and hiking to hidden grottoes tucked-away within the vast expanse of limestone cliffs. In the evenings, I practiced Tai Chi with our on-board practitioner, lulling myself into a peaceful state for the most comforting of evening rests. I witnessed Ha Long Bay’s most inspiring vista at sunset: The limestone mountains turned black, as the sky turned to burnt rust, filling the horizon with a splash of yellow, contrasting starkly with the strong, stagnant mountains. Passing the evening on the boat’s top deck was effortless. I could have stayed forever, but my journey to Hoi An was still ahead.

Exploring Hoi An’s Historic Old Town

Located an hour south of bustling Da Nang, Hoi An’s captivating coastline first lured me to Vietnam’s central coast. The idyllic shores rested gently near my home for the weekend, Boutique Hoi An Resort, a quiet respite with a restaurant serving authentic Vietnamese cuisine and lush, tropical gardens surrounding the grounds. The gateway to impossibly blue waters, the seaside sat completely empty, and I watched the day break from my balcony each morning, completely in awe of the setting before me. It was easy to feel insurmountable peace as the waves jostled and tossed in the distance, their lullaby drumming me to sleep. A silhouette of clustered islands looked like ships passing in the distance, and I could have stayed resting here forever, but I still had the city’s Old Town to explore.

Just as alluring as Hoi An’s shores is its downtown, a UNESCO World Heritage Site positioned delightfully along the South China Sea. The Thu Bon River runs through it, providing a channel system of access for fisherman who transport a daily harvest of fresh catch to the maze of markets in Hoi An’s town center. Here, I was delighted to find a slower pace, much more inviting than Hanoi’s frenetic streets. There were far fewer cars and motorbikes in the narrow maze of alleyways, and the chaotic cadence I grew to love in Hanoi was completely void here – time stood still. What I did find was a town with an entirely maintained historic charm. The presence of ancient temples and tucked-away teahouses were plenty, and I enjoyed exploring the city by foot, stopping to savor the delights of Hoi An’s Central Market along the way.

Rising early, I first ventured to the area where Central Market’s fisherman bring in fresh catch, all rowing their canoes along the market’s rear. The beguiling pace of purveyors hauling fresh fish, vegetables, and a plethora of unknowns into the market was a fascinating sight, and I enjoyed trying an array of new dishes with the city’s friendly locals. I discovered fresh fish, shrimp, and even seaweed, all available to purchase and prepare back at my hotel. Opting to sample delicacies in the market, I first tried goi cuon (spring rolls) and later cao lau, a dish made by mixing noodles, vegetables, and pork. I soon discovered savory dishes are not uncommon in Vietnam, and it’s highly likely to have this type of meal for breakfast. With a shopping bag and camera in tow, I then drifted to the market’s center, where a selection of fruits and vegetables were on display as local purveyors presented their finest harvest in wooden baskets. I ordered a freshly-squeezed fruit juice containing Vietnamese staples like mangosteen, dragon fruit, pomelo, mango, and lychee. After a proper mid afternoon rest at the beach of my hotel, I later ventured back out, this time to explore Hoi An’s downtown by moonlight. I discovered the area in an entirely new way, as street vendors still filled the streets, only now, they served the heartiest of evening dishes. I sampled sauce-slathered meats and fried donuts as I walked the quiet streets, falling more and more in love with this seaside town by the minute.

­Saigon to The Mekong Delta

My last stop on my Vietnam vacation took me to Ho Chi Minh City, but locals still refer to it as Saigon, a name more evocative of the vibrant and enigmatic charm the city holds. With a population of more than 8 million people, it was easy to get lost in the shuffle of both locals and motorbikes sweeping the streets, but I found the city’s pace quite intriguing, as small pockets of Saigon still felt of another era - reserved, home to intimate moments where friends and families convened. As a history buff, I enjoyed staying in a locale where the old and new merged. I found the city’s convivial hum alluring, and I often found locals congregating near street side food carts and traditional markets and temples, all gathering to discuss the happenings of the day and to genuinely enjoy a comradery together. As familial connections occurred, the modern clashed in on the city, revealing itself in the form of towering skyscrapers, looming dramatically in the metropolis’ distance. Even though the towers stand tall, it’s Saigon’s elegant, colonial French boulevards and buildings, the riverfront, and the quaint sidewalk cafes that make it so wonderful – places of peace and reflection to watch the city go by at a rapid speed.

To learn more about Saigon’s past, I visited the Reunification Palace, home to 60s-inspired architecture and the South Vietnamese Presidential Palace and headquarters for the Saigon Government during the Vietnam War. I later ventured to the War Remnants Museum to read of the atrocities that occurred during the war. Although the shocking photos were hard to view and comprehend, it was important to see, as the museum does a fine job of illustrating the conflict between the U.S. and the Viet Cong. During my last stop to learn more about Vietnam, I went to the Cu Chi Tunnels, the vast, underground network of tunnels and trapdoors first built as a defense against the French, which later expanded during the Vietnam War. Leaving Saigon for greener horizons on my Vietnam vacation, I drove inland to the Ben Tre province, located on a branch of the Mekong Delta, and an area standing in complete contrast to Saigon. Home to verdant tropical lands, the Mekong supports the entire country of Vietnam, lending the cities essential produce needed for survival. Here, life is simple. Farmers raise ducks, chickens, and grow cacao, and most live on the banks of the river, using the water to live, cook, and drink. I explored the Mekong by boat, the preferred mode of transportation. To fuel the vessels, locals use coconut shells, wood, and rice husk.

Beginning in Tibet, the Mekong River flows through China, Myanmar, Laos, Cambodia, and Vietnam. It is the longest river in the world and a lifeline to many countries it touches. For Vietnam, it’s integral to prosperity, as 21 million live along Vietnam’s portion of the river, quite a high number considering the country is home to a total of 90 million. As we barreled down small channels on this Vietnam vacation, I notice each home had its own water path to reach their village. Huge palms slap the front of our boat, and I bent and maneuvered out of their way, finally succumb to a large smack from a palm. We slowed down for bridges, which we barely fit under, and we watched as women washed clothes in the river and hung them to dry on lines. A scent of smoke filled the air as locals prepared their lunch, and I watched life on the Mekong float by as we passed homes set on the water, towing the delicate line between land and river.

During the journey, I stopped at a local's home to try the region's infamous cobra snake whiskey. Believed to be a cure-all for almost every ailment, the whiskey is said to relieve everything from backaches to impotency. The folklore lives on in many more ways along the Mekong, including in the boats themselves, which locals paint with faces of dragons and other magical creatures in an effort to ward off evil spirits and any other entity wishing to do the ship and its passengers harm - like crocodiles and the devil. On this Vietnam vacation, I discovered a life of contrast, a beautiful juxtaposition of old and new, city and country.

By Michaela Trimble