As our guide takes us through the derbs (alleyways) of the medina of Tétouan in Northern Morocco, it feels like there’s something to catch the eye at every turn, not to mention endless rows of merchants selling just about any item you can imagine from fresh fish to fine leather goods. The medina is the heart of old Tétouan, and its locals, are just as fascinating as they go about their daily business with an uncanny sense of direction.
These labyrinths of commercial and community activity remain centres of local life in many Moroccan cities. The world’s largest, in Fes, is so well preserved it’s earned a spot on the UNESCO World Heritage list. You’ll also find the medina of Marrakesh on that list, thanks to unique and beautiful architecture dating back to the 11th century.
It’s easy to see Morocco’s medinas as living monuments to its majestic past. Big or small, each offered places of worship, public ovens, public baths or hammams, and, most importantly, defensive walls. In many ways, there’s no better way to discover the all-sensory experience that is Morocco than by exploring its medinas. But they’re also not the whole story….
Four Imperial capitals with endless stories.
Fes, Marrakesh, Meknes and Rabat are Morocco’s historic capitals, or “Imperial cities.” Each holds a special place in Morocco’s history, dating all the way back to Fez’s founding in 789 AD. If you’re starting your trip in Casablanca, you’ll probably come to Rabat first. Morocco’s current capital, it’s famous for its colourful medina, the beautiful Kasbah of the Udayas, and Hassan Tower, an incomplete minaret with stunning geometric designs. It makes you wonder what might have been if Sultan Jaqub Al-Masur had ever completed the project.
The enormous Bab Al Mansour gate welcomes you to Meknes, the next Imperial capital, chosen by Sultan Moulay Ismail, whose Mausoleum still stands there today. With green tiles as far as the eye can see, Meknes offers an enchanting medina, and most notably, the Roman ruins of Volubilis, which are well worth the journey. Since they’re smaller cities, you probably won’t need too long in either Rabat or Meknes, but since they see fewer tourists than Fes or Marrakesh, each can be a refreshing break that lets you experience the ‘real’ Morocco past and present.
With almost 9,500 alleyways and over 300 mosques, Fes’s medina is perhaps Morocco’s most spectacular and popular. To walk beneath the soaring arches of the Bab Boujeloud gate is to step not just into the world’s largest car-free urban space, but back in time. You’ll want a full day here, with either a reliable SIM card to keep you from getting lost, or a guide to take you to the many points of interest. Of course, you can also just follow your nose to the infamous leather tanneries, at your own risk. We did say Morocco was an all-sensory experience!
Marrakesh is packed with architectural masterpieces like Medersa Ben Youssef (a 14th-century religious school), Bahia Palace, Musée des Confluences, and the ancient Jewish quarter, the Mellah. Countless visitors have fallen in love with Marrakesh, including fashion designer, Yves Saint Laurent, and painter Jacques Majorelle. Today, Masjorelle’s striking blue studio houses the Berber Museum and is surrounded by a stunning garden bearing his name. In 2017, the Yves Saint Laurent Museum opened just a short walk away.
Then, of course, there’s Marrakesh’s medina. Marrakesh is Morocco’s number one tourist city. The medina will more than reward your vigilance and curiosity with some of the country’s most intricate and historic architecture. About 200,000 Marrakesh locals call the medina home, though most live in a simple modern dar (house). Many of the riads (large homes with central courtyards and pools) have been converted into guest houses.
Popular food in Morocco.
Not every medina has preserved its communal oven, but many are very much still in use, and many locals prefer the flavours these wood ovens can bring out. When visitors return from Morrocco, the food is nearly always one of their favourite memories, loved for both its freshness and variety of spices.
An enormous chicken tagine awaited us for lunch at a gorgeous traditional restaurant in the centre of Tétouan medina, but we couldn’t help but snack on fresh bread filled with goat cheese while we explored. Neither my partner or I are normally goat cheese fans, but never doubt Morocco’s ability to surprise. This is arguably one of the best ways to eat in the medina. Simply explore, purchasing small snacks as you go. Stick to stalls where you see locals queuing for the tastiest and safest options.
Tagine is a must-try staple while in Morocco, best eaten with fresh bread to mop up the rich sauce. A Khalid’s omelet, filled with egg, potato, olive, spice, and cheese will ruin the humble western “breakfast sandwich” for you forever (in a good way). Soups are a big part of Moroccan cuisine as well, including harira, the traditional fast-breaking food during Ramadan. Every meal is digested with a cup of refreshing mint tea. In fact, all of Morocco seems to run on its highly addictive mint tea, and breaking for it at any time of day is an accepted part of daily life.
A touch of Moroccan luxury at the hammam.
The hammam, or communal bath, is a centuries-old Moroccan tradition. Hammams dot most Moroccan cities, and most will welcome foreigners, so it’s up to you if you’d rather visit a simple, practical place frequented by locals, or one of the more extravagant hammams offering the royal “luxury” treatment. Either way, you’ll most likely be able to book a full body scrub, exfoliation, and massage that will melt away the stresses of the outside world, as well as any aches and fatigue from an active trip exploring Morocco’s deserts or incredible natural sights like Todra Gorge.
Ingredients used at a hammam can vary, from vitamin-rich, olive-based pastes (known as “black soap”) to eucalyptus oils. Morocco’s signature cosmetic product is argan oil, which is noted for its healing properties and is often infused with aromas such as sandalwood and orange blossom. From that first glimpse of traditional Islamic architecture to the last drop of refreshing mint tea, a rejuvenating visit to at hammam (or two) is an essential Morocco experience.
Christian’s first globetrotting adventure saw him get lost exploring the streets of Saigon. Following his nose to Asia’s best coffee, two lifelong addictions were born. A freelance writer and novelist, Christian’s travels have since taken him around his native Australia, Asia, Europe, and much of North America. His favourite trips have been through Japan, Spain, and Brazil, though with a love of off-beat, artsy cities, he’ll seize any opportunity to return to Paris, New York, or Berlin.
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