Vibrations of Varanasi: Hearing the Heartbeat of the Ganges

Varanasi is often described as the spiritual heart of India. Every corner of its labyrinthine streets reveals a person deep in meditation or a group of religious devotees performing rituals. I had been to the city before, but even that didn’t prepare me for what I experienced on my second visit. It’s a city that leaves its mark, like the holy ash that a sadhu (religious ascetic) placed on my forehead in the early morning on the banks of the Ganges. 

Varanasi is located in India’s central north, about 200 mi (320 km) from the border crossing with Nepal. People have lived in the city for over 3,000 years. At its heart lies the Ganges River. Within Hinduism, the river is not just a river. It’s an embodiment of the goddess Ganga and descended from the heavens to purify the world and help humans escape the cycle of rebirth. Thus, the river is considered a sacred bridge between earth and the heavens. 

I spent two days in Varanasi on my most recent visit. On the first evening, I cruised in a boat along the Ganges and learned about the eternal flames of the Manikarnika Ghat, which burns 24 hours a day as it has done for thousands of years. Hindus bring their deceased loved ones to Varanasi to cremate them in these eternal flames and release their ashes into the sacred river, which secures moksha or escape from the cycle of rebirth. Dozens of cremations can occur a day. The rituals are profound, but not sad in the way you would think such rituals would be. The promise of moksha fills those with hope for the future and a profound sense of peace.

Afterwards, I witnessed the Ganga Aarti, a daily thanksgiving ceremony performed by thousands of people, who offer thanks to the river. Many people wait their entire lives to participate in the ceremony. It was moving to see so many elderly people along the water during the ceremony and to think about their lives that brought them to this point. 

The following morning, I rose early to reach the ghats at dawn. As I stood on the sacred steps leading into the river, the first light cut through the mist. The air was thick with incense. The only sound was that of pilgrims praying as they moved into the river to bathe in a sacred ritual that affords moksha. As I walked along the steps and took in these sights, every footfall seemed to bring a connection to something ancient, alive. It was as if the very soul of Varanasi was whispering to me with each step. 

I am not a Hindu, but standing on the banks of the Ganges, even I felt the river’s spiritual vibrations. The river transcends religious, ethnic, and cultural boundaries. It filled me with peace and helped me reflect on my own life and where the river of existence would take me in the future. Such is the power of Varanasi and its sacred river. It’s a place I’ll never forget. You’ll never forget it either if you have the chance to heed its call and witness its waters for yourself.